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Best rooting compound?
We are planning to root a cutting of an old Granada. This rose is 40+ years old and appeared to be on its last leg with a single old gray gnarly trunk. We cut off the single remaining cane and there is ONLY ONE stem to use for rooting. We have one chance!
I saw some Dyna-Grow yesterday and had it in my hand when I noticed the price: almost $30 for a small container. Then I remembered the bottle of liquid seaweed we already have at home and wondered if I could use that instead.
We have only one chance! What rooting compound would you choose for this?
Are you experienced with rooting roses? If not, there are probably more pressing things to consider than the rooting compound. I ask the question because I have been rooting cuttings for several years and am still trying various methods and approaches to best suit my area (middle Georgia). I have tried sand, Pine bark fines/peat moss/perlite, perlite only, Summer cuttings, Winter cuttings, with and without mist, etc. I have had success with all of the variations, but not are nearly 100%. I currently use dip-n-grow but have used Rootone in the past with success. I suspect that the rooting medium, the method used to promote rooting (baggie, bottom heat, etc.), and even the health of the doner rose bush will have more impact on your success than the rooting compound selected.
I used various powders for years when I volunteered at The Huntington Library, then plain old Rootone at home. I much prefer Dip’n Grow liquid to them all. Powders tend to be anhydrous, they absorb water and can lead to rotting of the cutting. The liquid soaks into the tissue and works its magic without inducing rot. Jeri Jennings uses a gel which should work similarly.
I find Dip’n Grow at Home Depot and local garden centers. It works marvelously. It is a concentrate which comes with a measuring beaker. You mix it to the concentration you wish so you don’t have to use a compromise concentration nor buy various strengths. Kim
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Tony: I plan to use this method from Hartwood Roses. I plan to set the container beneath the leaves of a shrub on the east side of our house (which actually faces south-east) for protection and a little sun. The plant itself did not look healthy; it does produce several beautiful blooms each year, but no new canes.
Kim: Thank you for your suggestions.
I’ll look for Dip ‘n Grow. I’ll also see if I can find a willow tree.
Clonex gel! For sure. I have used this for a while now and dont plan on changing again until I hear of something amazingly better. Ive done trees, roses, veggie plants and various annuals with much success. If you want to do it organic which would be my second choice I would highly recommend Extreme Gardening’s Azos.
I have good results with Rootone or sometimes have used Schultz’s or Miracle Grow powder. I have also had good luck using no rooting hormone, and an owner of a pretty large rose nursery once told me she uses nothing.
I agree that the health of the parent plant can matter, also its maturity. Good luck! I might try the Dip n Grow for some of mine that are hard to root. I wouldn’t spend $30.
Wilson’s Roots with fungicide is my all time favorite but since it’s harder to come by and I don’t like paying more for shipping than the actual product, I use Clonex now, it has fungicide too. A lot of people swear by Dip N’ Gro. It has fungicide in the formula which may help your success rates, especially in a water retentive medium. The liquid is said to be more easily absorbed whereas the powder Rootone, also with fungicide, usually just washes off before much can be absorbed. This is what I’ve been told frequently, anyways. Although I’ve never had much success with Dip N’ Gro or Rootone, except on very easily to root soft wood but that’s a given. You might also try treating the medium with Banrot, if you can get it. I find that it’s a big help for rooting and also seed starting. Agri-fos fungicide is good too and safer than Banrot. Though I usually use Banrot for ornamentals and Agri-fos for edibles. I don’t use these products outside, only inside with every safety precaution, so no one have a heart attack. YES, I admit it, I have a problem keeping things just right moisture and circulation-wise so it’s help from a bottle or no plants for me.
Why don’t you try the wrapping method, if you haven’t already? It’s supposed to have a high success rate for roses that fail at most other methods.
Here is a link that might be useful: Wrapping method
Hey Jenn in SoCal,
I came across this in a book I got from my local library. It’s called “Secrets from the Jerry Baker Test Garden”. On page 175 in a blurb called Share the Wealth, the author says to take a cutting 6-8 inches long, removing all the leaves but the top two. (It also says to do this after the plant is done blooming in the fall.)
After you do that, it says to:
“Stick the cut end into a potato, then plant the cutting (potato and all) with half of its length below the ground. Water thoroughly, then invert a small jar over it. Remove the jar the following spring, and you’ll have a little rosebush, complete with roots. “
I have not tried it but I wanted to pass it along to you. It sounds interesting. The book is full of tips and “tricks” so I guess it might have some merit to it.
Another thing you might try is to test the soil at the base of the plant. It might be lacking something the rose needs. Are there other roses around it that are doing well? You could try digging it up, gently wash away the soil (this will let you see how healthy the roots are) and replant it as you would a bare root in another spot. If you can get your hands on the book “Right Rose Right Place” by Peter Schneider (another library find), you will find a trove of helpful information.
We are planning to root a cutting of an old Granada. This rose is 40+ years old and appeared to be on its last leg with a single old gray gnarly trunk. We cut off the single remaining cane and there is ONLY ONE stem to use for rooting. We have one chance! I saw some Dyna-Grow yesterday and had it in…