cropping marijuana plants

Cannabis Super Cropping: How, When, And Why To Do It

Cannabis growers are always on the lookout for ways to improve their yields. Super cropping, when performed properly, not only drives up a plant’s production potential, but can also boost its resin production and potency.


Super cropping is an advanced cannabis training technique that can deliver really impressive yields. That said, it can be daunting for growers who have never tried it before, and can potentially result in disaster if not done correctly. Broken branches not only drive down yields, but also increase the risk of disease in your garden.

Luckily, with the right tips and a bit of patience, even inexperienced growers can reap the rewards of super cropping their cannabis plants. In this article, we’ll walk you through what super cropping is, why and when to do it, and how it works.


Super cropping is a high-stress training technique that involves pinching and bending branches to damage the inner fibers while leaving the outer lining intact.

While it might seem counterintuitive, this kind of stress actually benefits your plants, encouraging more vigorous vegetative growth and better bud development. In response to predators and other forms of stress, female plants naturally produce cannabinoid and terpene-rich trichomes. Thus, the damage you inflict when super cropping is believed to trigger the plant’s defence mechanisms, causing it to take up more nutrients, fuelling its growth.

On a secondary level, super cropping is a way to manipulate how your plants grow. After they’ve just been cropped, your plant’s branches will seem weak and flimsy; you can take advantage of this and tie them down (similar to how you would when using LST) to teach the plant to grow in a particular direction.

As they recover, your plants will form thick, hard knots at the crop points. During flowering, these knots will help support the weight of your plant’s buds, and the overall structure of the plant itself.


  • Your fingers
  • String or zip ties to tie down branches and hold them in place
  • Garden stakes/dowels
  • Duct tape
  • Patience


If you’re a rookie grower, we recommend super cropping your plants just once during the late vegetative stage, ideally 3–7 days before you flip them over to flowering. This will give them time to recover from the stress of cropping before they start focusing their energy on developing buds.

Remember to never super crop plants dealing with pest infestations, nutrient deficiencies, or any other type of negative stress. Super cropping is a very stressful technique, and your plants need to be extremely healthy to be able to cope with it.

If you have some experience with this technique, we recommend super cropping a second time within the first two weeks of flower. This is because plants tend to exhibit a final period of explosive growth at the beginning of bloom (known as “stretching”). After that, let your plants recover and feed/water them as usual. You should notice an increase in bud sites along the cropped branches.

As you become more familiar with super cropping, feel free to experiment more with this technique. You can super crop in different ways, and at different times, during your plant’s life cycle. Some growers find super cropping early on in the vegetative stage helps spark rapid growth and bigger, more structurally sound plants.

If you’re super cropping to help your plants better support their buds, we recommend doing so as soon as they grow their third node. Together with a bit of LST, you’ll end up with big, strong plants come flowering that are ready to support even the densest of flowers.

On the other hand, you can use super cropping in the late vegetative and early flowering phases if you want to even out your canopy and boost resin production for a bigger, more aromatic, and ultra-potent harvest.


Super cropping freaks out a lot of rookie growers, and for somewhat good reason; it takes experience and skill to perform this technique, and a simple mistake could seriously stunt a plant’s growth. Luckily, with the right knowledge, you can reap the rewards of this technique on your next grow.

  1. Determine which branches to crop. We recommend cropping branches that are mature, but not old or woody. Any branches that are notably taller than others are a good place to start, as super cropping will lower them to create a more even canopy.
  2. Start by cropping the bottom of a branch. You want to squeeze it gently between your thumb, fore, and index fingers while simultaneously bending it slightly in the direction you want it to grow. The goal is to crush the core of the branch so you can manipulate it to your needs. Remember to be gentle; it can help to roll the branch between your fingers for several seconds to make it more pliable, then gently bend it in the desired direction.
  3. Work your way up the branch, leaving a few centimetres between each crop. We don’t recommend cropping anything above 2–3 nodes from the tip.
  4. Once your branch has been cropped and is leaning in the direction you want it to, it’s time to tie it down at each crop site using string or zip ties.

Remember, the key to super cropping is finding that sweet spot where the inside of the branch feels soft and malleable while the outside remains completely intact. After super cropping, your branches/plant should lean more to one side, and the tips should be bent at roughly 90°. If you’re a rookie, it might take some trial and error to get this right.


If you’re fairly inexperienced, you’re likely to break a branch (or a few) when first attempting to super crop your plant. If this happens, don’t freak; while it’s certainly a bummer, you may be able to rectify the situation.

Tape around the tear or snap with duct tape to create a sort of makeshift bandage. If need be, support the branch by tying it to another nearby branch or to a garden stake. You should be able to remove the bandage tape within a week.

As your plant heals, it will grow big knots in all the spots you bent/snapped (including those you broke). This is completely normal (and beneficial!).


For even bigger yields, use super cropping together with other techniques like main-lining and LST. The former involves creating a “manifold”, which essentially means topping plants to give rise to two main stems from a single node. The latter involves bending the resulting stems to grow parallel to the ground, increasing light penetration and controlling vegetative growth in the process. By combining all of these techniques, advanced growers can make the most of their space and resources to develop truly spectacular results from impressive, albeit strange-looking, cannabis plants.


Super cropping, while daunting, is a great high-stress technique that can have a massive impact on the size and quality of your yield (as long as you know what you’re doing). Use this article as a guide during your next grow, and see the benefits of super cropping for yourself!

Super cropping is a cannabis training technique that can deliver huge yields. In this article, we'll teach you everything you need to know about super cropping.

Monster Cropping Cannabis: Step-By-Step Guide

Monster cropping is a training method that allows for continuous harvests without keeping a mother plant. Clones from flowering plants become dense monsters with big yields! Read on to learn the advantages, disadvantages, and how to monster crop indoors and out.

Monster cropping cannabis for maximum yields and efficiency.

  • 1. What is monster cropping?
  • 2. What does monster cropping do to cannabis?
  • 3. Is monster cropping cannabis worth it?
  • 3.a. Advantages of monster cropping
  • 3.b. Disadvantages of monster cropping
  • 4. How much does monster cropping improve yields?
  • 5. How long does monster cropping take?
  • 6. How to monster crop cannabis indoors
  • 7. How to monster crop cannabis outdoors
  • 8. Monster cropping and screen of green (ScrOG)
  • 9. Should you try monster cropping your cannabis plants?
  • 1. What is monster cropping?
  • 2. What does monster cropping do to cannabis?
  • 3. Is monster cropping cannabis worth it?
  • 3.a. Advantages of monster cropping
  • 3.b. Disadvantages of monster cropping
  • 4. How much does monster cropping improve yields?
  • 5. How long does monster cropping take?
  • 6. How to monster crop cannabis indoors
  • 7. How to monster crop cannabis outdoors
  • 8. Monster cropping and screen of green (ScrOG)
  • 9. Should you try monster cropping your cannabis plants?

If you grow cannabis, the following situation might sound familiar: Your tent is filled to the brim so your plants can collect all the light possible. Some plants are in the vegetative stage, a few are flowering, and there might even be one giant mother plant taking up lots of room, energy, and air. Let’s do something about it: Monster cropping has come to the rescue!


Monster cropping is a cannabis plant training technique that can help you grow more efficiently. In essence, it involves taking flowering clones and reverting them back to the veg phase to capitalise on dense, bushy growth.

With this method, you don’t need to keep a mother plant to ensure continuous harvests. And, when you combine it with other forms of plant training, like ScrOG, it can help increase yields even more while cutting down on energy costs. Monster cropping can be performed indoors, outdoors, or in a greenhouse.


One principle behind nearly every plant training technique is stress. If done right, this is a good thing. Controlled stress on your plants can promote desired growing characteristics; for example, it can make plants grow in a certain shape or develop more bud sites. Stress on cannabis plants encourages their natural defences into action. They go into “turbo mode” with maximum terpene production, resulting in a more aromatic final product.

Training techniques that involve damaging plants, such as pruning or taking cuttings, inflict considerable stress, and thus plants will need time to recover. Because of that, methods like monster cropping are used on photoperiod cannabis strains only.

Monster cropping differs in one important aspect from other high-stress techniques: It does not directly impact the growth of your current crop. Rather, you take clones from mature flowering plants, and these clones are then reverted back to veg.


Monster cropping may or may not work great for you. It all depends on your setup, your strains, and your experience. For instance, it doesn’t work with autoflowers and is not optimal for strains that grow very short or too slow. To help you decide whether monster cropping is worth it in your case, here are some pros and cons.


Continuous harvests and no need to keep mothers

With monster cropping, you don’t need to keep a mother plant around for continuous harvests. You are taking clones from flowering plants. You can simply start flowering your entire crop as usual, taking the next generation of clones from these. With no need for a dedicated “mother room”, you can make better use of your growing space, lights, and air.

Maximise yields

When you re-veg flowering clones, they will grow monstrous! Your re-vegged girls will become extremely bushy with more side branches. More branches with more buds exposed to your lights means bigger yields! The bushy growth also allows you to more effectively fill your grow space.

Complements other training techniques

For even better results, you can combine monster cropping with other training techniques like topping, fimming, lollipopping, or LST. This way, you can easily fill a small tent with one giant monster. For the absolute best results, combine it with a ScrOG (more on that below).


Doesn’t work with autoflowers

Autoflowers can’t be re-vegged, which means monster cropping is a no-go. On that note, taking monster crop clones from small or slow photoperiod strains isn’t the best idea either.

Not all cuttings will be successful

Compared to clones from vegging plants, clones from flowering cannabis have a lower success rate. Since some just won’t root, you should always take some extra cuttings. Even expert growers have a hard time getting all their flowering clones to root. So expect some losses.

It takes time

Cutting clones, waiting for them to root, and then re-vegging them for a few weeks means it will take longer until you can harvest your girls. So if you’re pressed for time, monster cropping may not be what you want.


It’s hard to give an exact figure on how much monster cropping can increase yields, as this relies on a variety of factors—your experience being one of them. Some growers recommend letting cuttings veg into large bushes before encouraging lateral growth with repeated topping/super cropping, and then placing them under a ScrOG. Although highly involved, this allows growers to manipulate clones to deliver the best-possible harvests.

But aside from looking at numbers alone, don’t forget that monster cropping provides another advantage: You can harvest multiple times! This by itself is a convincing argument.


It’s best to take your clones at about 2–3 weeks into flowering.

Once you have taken your flowering clones, it will take an average of one week until they root. The re-vegging of your clones will then take (at least) another 2–3 weeks. When all is said and done, expect the process to add at least 3 weeks to your plant’s growth; and this doesn’t even factor in further topping and training. Each additional topping will add around a week to your grow.


Enough with all the theory—let’s get into the practice. Here is how to monster crop cannabis indoors.


• Sharp scissors, knife, or scalpel
• Alcohol wipes (to disinfect your tools)
• Glass or container with water (to soak the cuttings)
• Rooting gel (optional)
• Rockwool cubes, perlite (optional)


At around week 2 of flowering, locate your best specimen—one that has grown well and tall. If you have multiple strains, you could select several cuttings from each one to see which plants turn out best. Make sure that the plants you’re taking from are healthy and not displaying any signs of illness or deficiency.


Take your scissors or knife and give it a quick wipe with alcohol to disinfect. Cleanliness will greatly help your cloning success! Go to your chosen flowering plant and select a lower branch. These usually root faster than branches on top. Swiftly cut diagonally across the stem to take the cutting. A diagonal cut provides more surface area for the cutting to take in water and nutrients, and for the roots to grow.

Again, make sure you take more cuttings than you need. Expect at least 25% of your clones not to root. Disinfect your tools before each cut.


Immediately after taking each cutting, place the stem into the container with water. The water will seal the cut and prevent air from entering, which would otherwise kill your clone. Alternatively, you can use a rooting gel instead of water. You can leave the cutting in the container until roots appear, or you can place it into a rooting medium such as rockwool cubes or perlite.


To get your clones back to a vegetative state, you need to adjust their light cycle accordingly. Most growers choose an 18/6 schedule, but anything from 18–24 hours of light will work. When your clones start to re-veg, they will grow in an odd way with round leaves and lots of branches. This strange growing phase will last for about 3–4 weeks.


Once your clone is in full vegetative growth again, this is when you can apply plant training (topping, super cropping) to encourage lateral growth even more. Your plants staying short and flat will be particularly advantageous if you plan to put them under a ScrOG.


Monster cropping can also be done outdoors, where it provides a major advantage: If you grow in a warm climate with no frost, you can achieve two harvests in a single season! This is how you do it.


If you bring out your seeds in winter, the longer nights will put your plants into flowering as soon as they emerge. If you want to extend the vegging period to add some size to your clones, you can supplement with a small light that you turn on for an hour or so every night. This interruption in the dark period will prevent your ladies from going into flower.

If you grow in a climate with occasional frost in winter, keep your plants indoors under a vegging light cycle, then set them outside once there is no risk of frost. If you are able to do that early enough in the year (by February in most places) they will go back into flowering before the days get long again. If it’s still too cold during this time, it’s not worth the risk of killing your ladies.


Your first batch of buds will be ready to harvest in early spring before daylight savings. At the same time that you’re filling your bags, around mid-March, the days will soon be long enough for your clones to re-veg.


Once your clones have gained mass, they will naturally progress into the flowering phase as the seasons change. This means you can harvest them at the usual time in fall. Bingo! You brought in two harvests in one growing season!

Pro tip: This outdoor monster cropping method only works in climate zones where there is no risk of frost all year long, such as in Southern Europe, Southern US, etc. It won’t work in regions where you’d need to wait until late spring to plant outside.


Monster cropping is all about maximising lateral growth from shorter plants. This makes ScrOG (screen of green) the perfect method to go with it.

Installing a net over the canopy will increase horizontal growth further as you weave branches through the mesh. The ScrOG will encourage an even canopy so your weed plants can make best use of available light. The result: tons of fat buds!


Taking clones, getting them to root, topping, and ScrOG aren’t exactly for the bloody beginner to cannabis cultivation. On the other hand, monster cropping may be just what experienced growers need to push production to the next level. It is one of the best ways to take full advantage of your available grow space.

So, if you have the skills and are not afraid to put a knife to your cannabis, you should definitely try out monster cropping. Rest assured, the results will be worth it!

Monster cropping involves taking clones from flowering cannabis plants to encourage heavy branching, high yields, and continuous harvests. Here's how to do it!